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In the neighbourhood: Bonnevoie
Bohemian

In the neighbourhood: Bonnevoie

by Sarita Rao 13 min. 28.02.2022 From our online archive
Known for its bohemian atmosphere, Bonnevoie or Bouneweg has its roots in the textile industry and is home to some familiar faces
The Rotondes, a former railway shed and workshop now hosts cultural events
The Rotondes, a former railway shed and workshop now hosts cultural events
Photo credit: Lex Kleren

Bonnevoie is an area in south-eastern Luxembourg City known for its bohemian and eclectic atmosphere. The once mainly working-class Luxembourgish and Portuguese neighbourhood now incorporates a high number of foreign residents, mixing cultures, nationalities and ages into one big melting pot. Bonnevoie/Bouneweg – the 'good way' or the 'right way' – is definitely one of the city's most popular quarters.

Famous current and former residents include Corinne Cahen, former journalist and minister for family & integration and the Greater Region, Hugo Gernsback, a writer, publisher and inventor often considered the father of science fiction, Gabriel Lippman, a Nobel laureate in physics, and the current prime minister, Xavier Bettel.

A little background ...

Bonnevoie’s origins date back to the Cisterian nuns who arrived in the 12th century, and for centuries the city’s fortifications were a major feature of the area, but were destroyed in 1807. The area developed rapidly when it was connected to the national railway network in 1859, swiftly followed by a series of social housing projects.

The first parish church was consecrated in 1888, but was destroyed by bombs in the Second World War, after which the Mary Queen of Peace Church was constructed.

Divided into the districts of Bonnevoie North and South, combined they are home to more than 17,000 people. 

À Vos Côtés is a team of welfare workers who stroll the streets in green jackets, to reassure residents in Gare and Bonnevoie with a feeling of safety when shopping, going to school or just walking the streets. They have been trained in de-escalation, preventation and dialogue. In serious cases, they can provide a link to the police services and report cases of assault. They patrol the Bonnevoie area from 11.00 to 22.00 on Monday to Thursday, and from 11.00 to 23.00 on Friday and 15.00 to 23.00 on Saturday. 

Property prices

According to Wort Immo, the current price per square meter of real estate is:

Apartment (old)            €11,497

Apartment (new)           €11,835

House (old)                     €9,110

Facilities

Shopping & services

Bonnevoie is home to a number of speciality food shops from Italy, Portugal, Greece, Cape Verde, India and South America. If you need a weekly grocery shop, there is a Cactus supermarket, and a Proxy Delhaize. 

Organic food (including fresh fruit and vegetables) and cosmetic specialist Alavita is located at 1 rue Auguste Charles. You'll find butcher shop Taiba (Halal meat available) on Route de Thionville, and oils, cheeses, pastries and of course olives at Au Gourmet Grec. A new grocery and wine shop, La Petite Epicerie opened at 154 route de Thionville, selling French and Luxembourgish handcrafted products. 

If you are considering a tattoo, then Absolut Ink has a studio for tattoos and piercings. You'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to hair salons as there are quite a few including 352 Hairconcept, Exo World, Prince hairdressers and barbers, Salon de Coiffure Marina, Joya-coiffure, MD Hairstylist, Ferber hair & style, Coiffure Elaine, Bubbles, Salon Romeu, Salon de coiffure Francis, Brune, Salon d'Alice,  and Ryanhair.

Jewellery, bronze art, precious silks, lithographs and engravings are just some of the specially selected Luxembourg artworks available to buy at MUSEAL at Résidence Dali at 28 rue du Dernier Sol. You can find made-to-measure interiors from carpenters Artirado.  If you want a new guitar, try Guit-Art.

If miniature trains are your passion, then you should check out the Model Shop, whilst you'll find dollhouses, wooden toys and board games at Ars Libri. Organic child and baby toys and clothes that are bio and fairtrade are on sale at Naturwelten. There's also a solidarity fridge outside the shop, stocked by foodsharing.lu and providing food that would otherwise go to waste free to anyone in the community. 

The area is also home to the Bangladesh Business Chamber of Commerce of Luxembourg at 9 Route de Thionville, whilst the Islamic Association of Luxembourg is at 19 rue Nicolas Martha.

The Oasis Church of God Luxembourg is located on rue Dernier Sol, and has a Sunday service at 10.30.  

Schools & crèches

Bonnevoie has lots of nurseries/crèches, and is also home to Les Poussins French language crèche and nursery school, as well state primary schools Bonnevoie Gelle, Bonnevoie Schlechter and Bonnevoie-Verger. It also has a Lycée Technique, which offers vocational training and evening courses.

A new creche run by the VDL has opened on rue George C Marshall, and can accommodate 3 groups of up to 12 children under the age of 2, and 3 groups of up to 15 children between the ages of 2 and 4.

Transport & parking

Close to Luxembourg’s main railway station, Bonnevoie is served by buses 2, 3, 5, 9, 28 and 29 (recently changed - see VDL website for full details), and has six Vel’Oh cycle stations.

The tram has now been extended from Gare with two stops in Bonnevoie - Dernier Sol and Lycee Bonnevoie that opened on 11 September 2022. The tram links to the old town, Limpertsberg and Kirchberg in one direction and will be extended to Cloche d'Or in the other. 

Parking is limited but residents are entitled to free parking in the zone in which they live. Four residential parking vignettes can be issued per household, the first one is free. Applications for parking vignettes can be made here.

Recreation

Kaltries Park Photo: Lex Kleren
Kaltries Park Photo: Lex Kleren

Sports & Parks

Bonnevoie is home to Racing FC Union Luxembourg football club at the Stade Achille Hammerel. The neighbourhood’s tennis club, Club 5 am Tennis is located at 11 rue Anatole France. The renovated space-themed Kaltries recreational park boasts a rocket ship, an outdoor fitness area and chess board, ping pong tables, and a bowling alley. Residents can also apply for an allotment from the VDL (Ville de Luxembourg).

The Bonnevoie municipal swimming pool has a main pool and a smaller one, a workout area, sauna and a solarium. Swimming lessons are available.

Riverside walking, scooting and rollerblading

The River Alzette runs along the border of Bonnevoie, and there are paths leading to Grund (4km) and Hesperange (7km). On the path to Hesperange you will find the small artist commune "Schlaiffmillen" which holds open days.

The 2km circuit Godchaux bears the name of the family who introduced the textile industry to the Alzette Valley. The walk goes past the former workers’ quarters on Rue Godchaux and the family villa, Fohlmillen, and many other sites, bringing to life the area's rich industrial past. You can find more on this hidden historical treasure in this article

Bicycle, motorbikes & cars

Cycle Arnold Kontz sells and repairs bicycles and motorbikes, with the main auto centre servicing and selling high-end car brands. Losch garages service and sell a number of mainstream brands and are located at Route de Thionville.

Culture & theatre

The Rotondes regularly hosts cultural events, live bands, theatre, workshops and festivals, including the neighbourhood’s famous "Eat It" festival. The unique listed building is one of two engine sheds and workshops that were constructed in 1875 in an unusual turntable shape with an iron skeleton. 

The music school Cavem (10 rue des Trévires) offers guitar, drum, piano, keyboard, organ, accordion and saxophone lessons to pupils from seven years old. Teachers are active musicians who play solo or in a band.

Solidarity fridge
Solidarity fridge
Foto: Gerry Huberty

The Luxembourg centre for choreography – Trois C-L  (at Banannefabrik, 12 rue du Puits) is the country’s leading organisation in contemporary dance, supporting and producing artistic work, providing a contemporary dance network and continued professional training. It also holds amateur dance workshops and courses for the public.

The Casemates Theatre (also on rue du Puits) offers a contemporary programme in German and the Open Theatre Luxembourg (TOL) at 143 Route de Thionville is a small, cosy theatre with an upstairs bar. 

The Chinese Cultural Association at 15 Rue Jean Schaack runs Chinese language and calligraphy classes at all levels for adults.

Restaurants, cafes, bars and bakeries

Inside Bouneweger Stuff Photo: Gerry Huberty
Inside Bouneweger Stuff Photo: Gerry Huberty

You'll be in foodie heaven in this neighbourhood where you can sample a vast array of different cuisines in the many restaurants of Bonnevoie. 

We haven't covered all the restaurants but if there's one missing that you think should be listed here, let us know. 

Bouneweger Stuff, is considered the bar for brunch, meetings or simply catching a slice of life. The Cafe Why Not at 29 rue Félix de Blochausen has outdoor seating, a friendly after-work atmosphere, and hosts live music nights. 

A new restaurant, Le Laboratoire opened at 1 rue de Trevires, with a changing seasonal menu from chef Benoit Gonella, offering classic French cuisine. 

If you fancy Thai food, Sawasdee offers a lunchtime buffet and Simply Thai gives a very friendly service. More spicy food, this time Indian, at the Bay of Bengal

La Veranda restaurant (Howald bordering Bonnevoie) and La Locanda offer authentic Italian food, and you can try some gnocchi with pesto and truffle sauce at Pastificio la Modenese. You'll find even more Italian cuisine at Le Trio at 1 Rue Auguste Charles and the gastronomic culture of the Belpaese at LuCi. If you're after some fine home-made pizza, try Matese, or Atelier del Gusto serves up great Italian food, including pizza, with a recommendation for the superb focaccia.  

Le Puits Magique, Restaurant La Gamba, and Lisboa II provide Portuguese cuisine. For Brazillian food, try Picanha Plaza, or starve yourself before trying the Brazillian Sunday Roast all you can eat at La Bonne Auberge. For something Peruvian including ceviche, try La Cusqueñita

Readers have also recommended Biryani Corner for Indian takeaway food, and if you have a craving for mezze, then head to Meltemi for some home-cooked Greek food. 

The famous Hoffmann patisserie offers tasty baked treats and cakes at 200 Rue d’Itzig, as does Tartefine on rue Demy Schlechter, which also has a selection of bio and vegan pastries. Sushi lovers should check out Kikko or Mr Mai Pho & Sushi (which also does Vietnamese snacks). Vegans and vegetarians should try the much-acclaimed Glow.

Find out more …

You can find out about the neighbourhood events at this Facebook page and there's a local parents group here



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