Madrid’s ghost subway and Milan’s canal-side bars
If you fancy a city break, to explore art and architecture or culinary delights, Madrid and Milan offer plenty of these, but also some hidden gems, including a ghost train station (and a tropical garden one) in Madrid. In da Vinci’s town, you can follow up The Last Supper with a drink in the world’s smallest bar, alongside a canal designed with help from the great man himself.
Art and architecture buffs, and food lovers will be in heaven wandering the tree-lined boulevards of Madrid, whilst food lovers can sample an mouth-watering array of tapas.
Covid - entry requirements
There are no entry restrictions for passengers coming from Luxembourg provided they have a negative PCR test of less than 72 hours prior to arrival (children under 6 years are exempt), or from 7 June, a certificate demonstrating they are fully vaccinated against Covid-19.
All passengers arriving in Spain must fill in an FCS health control form and will undergo a temperature check and visual inspection. When you complete the form, you will be issued with a personal non-transferrable QR code which you must show at the airport health control on arrival. You may be asked to show your negative result in paper or electronic format.
For PCR tests before you return to Luxembourg, you can access the testing zone on the second floor at Terminal 4 at Madrid Airport with a boarding card that will be valid in the next 72 hours. You can book your test in advance here.
What can I do?
Facemasks must be worn in all public spaces indoor and outdoor, with the exception of children under 6 years. Eight people can share a table outdoors (six people indoors) at restaurant and bars which are open 6.00 to 1.00. Smoking outdoors is forbidden if a 2m distance cannot be kept.
Hotels and restaurants can have only 50% capacity in enclosed spaces, and 75% for outdoor spaces, shopping centres and cultural venues or museums. Nightclubs remain closed.
The main museums, palaces and royal sites are open, and visits to the city’s two main football stadiums resumed in June. Parks and gardens, including the Zoo are also open. The Rastro flea market is open with half the number of stalls and a maximum capacity of 2,700 visitors.
Flights from Luxembourg with Luxair leave three times a week in June, and five to six times a week in July and August. The journey time is just under two and a half hours. Ryanair also flies direct from Luxembourg to Madrid three times a week.
Things to see and do
No visit to Madrid is complete without a trip to the Prado Museum, home to Velàzquez’ "Las Meninas" and Goya’s "Third of May", plus works from Titian, Bosch and several Flemish and Italian masterpieces.
You’ll need at least half a day to explore it, and another for Thyssen-Bornemisza, which exhibits works by Caravaggio, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Dali and Georgia O’Keefe. If contemporary art is more to your taste, then the Reina Sofia as more than 22,000 works including ones by Miró, and Picasso’s famous Guernica.
Parks and quarters
If you want to relax between art critiquing, you can do so at Retiro Park or the Botanical gardens, or stop for a coffee and tapas in the Barrio de las Letras or Plaza Mayor.
Plaza de Oriente is home to Madrid’s iconic Royal palace and Teatro Real, plus the nearby Temple of Debod, reconstructed after being donated to Spain during the construction of Egypt's Aswan Dam (you can read more about this in our article on Francis Firth, currently exhibiting at the National Library of Luxembourg). All across the city you’ll come across astounding architecture tucked into squares, as at the Plaza de Toros or on resplendent view such as the Cibeles Palace.
Near the Latina district you’ll find the San Miguel Market which is lined with stalls and old taverns offering sharing tapas (raciones). You can try tapas from across Spain, including the Basque region and Galacia, but also local ones such as chickpea stew, cocido, or if you’re feeling brave, tripe stewed in tomato with paprika and chorizo, in a dish called callos.
If you’re travelling with younger children, Madrid still has plenty for a weekend away. The Zoo, in Caso del Campo (on the metro) has animals from five continents, whilst Faunia has some 4,000 animals in four dedicated eco-zones. For a bit of stargazing, the Planetarium has daily shows and workshops, whilst Aquopolis water park has 12 water attractions.
For something a bit more off the beaten track, then two of Madrid’s train stations have been transformed.
The Atocha covered train station seems more like a tropical garden than a commuter zone, where a section no longer in use now contains a garden of 7,000 plants.
The capital’s first metro station Chamberi (between the Bilbao and Iglesia stops) was abandoned. Now a museum dedicated to the history of Madrid Metro, its platform zero has old ticket offices, turnstiles and maps, and all the original advertising of 1919, composed of coloured tiles.
A bronze statue of a bear on its hind legs snuffling at a tree can be found at Puerta del Sol. The bear has been a symbol of Madrid since the 13th century, although these days the real-life ones can only be found in northern Spain. Head to the Casino Gran Madrid to find a giant frog sculpture on the pavement outside. Under Franco’s regime, gambling was forbidden, so to mark a return to the tables, the casino gifted the city this lucky frog.
Perhaps best-known for the city where da Vinci painted the Last Supper, as much as an international fashion capital, Milan has a lot more to offer including grand architecture, canal-side cycle routes and, of course, the famous Milanese veal cutlet.
Covid – entry requirements
As of 31 March 2021, passengers from EU Schengen areas must present a negative PCR test or antigen test carried out within 48 hours prior to entry or arrival (except children under the age of 2 years).
As of 24 May 2021, all passengers entering Italy must fill out a European Passenger Locator Form in digital format and they will receive a QR code to their mobile or for printing, that must be presented before boarding. For a family travelling together, one member can complete the form and include the names of other family members. Likewise for groups travelling together, one member must fill out the form and include other group members. Travellers to Italy are also advised to download the official app for contact tracing from here (although it’s not obligatory).
It's mandatory to wear a mask in public places indoors and outdoors except in places where you are isolated from people you don’t live with. Children under 6 years do not need to wear a mask.
You can take rapid antigen Covid tests at Malpensa airport every day from 4.00 to 16.00, booking them here. Tests take place in Terminal 1, and you must take one at least four hours before departure.
What can I do?
Until 21 June there is a curfew from midnight to 5.00, after which there are no time limits regarding mobility. Bars, restaurants and bakeries are open and display a sign indicating the maximum number of people allowed inside. Table service at restaurants is available outdoors and indoors for lunch and dinner, with a maximum of four people per table (more for families). Nightclubs are closed but casinos will re-open on 1 July.
You can visit beaches that are a 2 hour journey from Milan, but beach resorts may require a reservation. Loungers and deckchairs must have a minimum of 1.5m between them. Swimming and surfing are allowed. Outdoor swimming pools are open but tickets must be reserved, and indoor swimming pools will open on 1 July.
Museums and other cultural institutions are open at weekends. On weekdays the number of visitors is limited (depending on the size of the museum), but for weekend visits you’ll need to book online or by phone. Cinemas and theatres are operating at 50% capacity, and cannot exceed 1,000 people. Theme parks will reopen on 15 June.
Flights from Luxembourg, run daily with Luxair (except Saturdays and with the exception of a few Saturdays in July) to Malpensa Airport and take about an hour and a quarter. Ryanair fly twice a week in June and four times a week in July, August and September to Milan Bergame airport. Easyjet are expecting to recommence flights to Malpensa in September 2021.
Things to do and see
Art & Architecture
The city’s Duomo stands in the heart of Milan, a Gothic, 14th century cathedral, with a rooftop giving magnificient views of the city’s skyline with the Alps in the background (thought to have inspired the Paramount Pictures logo). The exterior is heavily decorated and features many statues including two boxers wrestling.
For da Vinci fans the Santa Maria delle Grazie is a must, to see The Last Supper mural, which unlike a fresco, was painted in the 16th century on a dry wall giving it greater luminosity. Unfortunately this method means it’s now peeling away, and may not be here for future generations.
Flanked by a spectacular fountain, Sforzesco Castle, also in town, was built in the 15th century and houses a number of museums and artworks. The nearby Sempione Park is a good place for a stroll or break from sightseeing.
Canal life and street art
Venice is not the only city of water in Italy, as Milan had a system of navigable canals designed with input from da Vinci. Today the Naviglio Grande and Pavese are the most visited, mostly because they are filled with canal-side bars, restaurants and cafés (including the allegedly smallest bar in the world, Backdoor 43). You can also take boat tours. For some street art painted onto the facades of buildings, Port Nuova is the place to head.
Local delicacies include polenta and risotto with braised veal shank and Milanese-style veal cutlets. Milan also has a thriving Chinatown serving up local oriental delicacies. If you fancy a bit of exercise before you eat, you can cycle the scenic route along the canal Naviglio della Martesana, north-east of the city, past farms until you reach Gorgonzola, famed for that pungent blue cheese. There are numerous bike hire/ bike share places in town.
Nearby lakes and beaches
Lake Garda is a one-hour train journey from Milan. Italy’s largest lake, fed by glaciers, you can visit the monastery founded by St Francis of Assisi on one of its islands. It’s also a great place for hiking, climbing, and even windsurfing, or just relaxing in a sulphur spring.
You can drive to Bergeggi beach (a free-entry beach), known for its clear, blue water in just over two hours. If you prefer to take a train, the fishing village of Boccadasse is two hours away.